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Composting with Black Soldier Flies

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Nature's own ultimate food recyclers, BSF have proven to be a great summertime composting solution.

The BSF larvae will eat kilograms of scrap food a night in small composting units, eliminating your food waste before it can even begin to rot.

Black Soldier Fly larvae do more than just eat waste.

When they are done eating your food waste, they will harvest themselves into buckets and let you feed them to your chooks, pigs, ducks, birds and fish. You name it. High in protein and fat they could become a main ingredient in future animal feeds.

On average a household will produce a little under a kg of food waste per day. This food waste can be composted at home using black soldier fly larvae much much faster than worms can do it. 

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    • Mutafela's Avatar
    • Eggs on Cardboard Straps
    • Hello there! I've been using cardboard straps for BSF laying of eggs, and now am attempting to put them in a new container as recommended by Sheppard (2002) in his article 'Rearing Methods for the BSF'. Now my question is; how do I separate them from the cardboard without harming them? They are usually sticky and clustered in the small openings. Or should I cut out sections of the board where the eggs are clustered and keep the cuttings in the new container? Thanks!
    • In Black Soldier Fly Farming Forum / BSF Breeding
    • GalenO's Avatar
    • Bad experience - What to do with leachate
    • Hi, I am new to BSFL cultivation, but I know a fair amount about organic waste leachates. As previously mentioned, they are high in nutrients (especially N and P), and will quickly host anaerobic bacteria. There are two ways that I know of to deal with the leachates so that they are beneficial to plants. 1. Aerobic: Dilute the leachate at least 10:1 and aerate (bubble) continuously for 12-24 hours before application. An aquarium aeration stone works great. The idea is to promote the development of aerobic soil bacteria. So, this is helped by introducing the type of bacteria that you want to promote. You can buy biodynamic preps, use a bit of healthy soil, or add a bit of compost from a warm aerobic compost heap. I would further dilute the aerated leachate before application. Aerobic bacteria found coexisting with healthy plants help convert nutrients to forms that are more available to those plants. 2. Anaerobic: For this, you will need a bucket/drum with a tight-fitting lid and some sort of one-way valve or air lock. Dilute the leachate at least 5:1 and add some form of carbon/sugar/starch. (Spent brewing grain works great.) Add diluted leachate and carbon source to your bucket and inoculate with bokashi. A fully liquid environment is not ideal for bokashi, but many of the organisms will flourish. Let the ferment run until it slows down, but do not let it stop completely. you can add more food, or use one batch to inoculate the next. The leachate processed with bokashi is best used to promote beneficial (no stink) decomposition of anaerobic wastes. organic wastes decomposed with bokashi will be somewhat acidic, so direct application to plants is not advisable. However, spreading the bokashi+leachate when turning in a cover-crop can be very useful. Note on nutrient content of leachate: The nutrient concentrations in your leachate will vary depending on a huge variety of factors, including the waste:larvae ratio, temperature, type of waste, moisture content of the waste, etc. Knowing how much carbon to add to get a balanced fermentation, or how much to dilute your leachate must be figured out on a case-by-case basis. There is no magic ratio. Many of the other posters to this thread have described their situation and results with different dilutions. I would suggest starting with a mild dilution and slowly testing stronger dilutions to see the effect on your plants. I hope this is somewhat helpful. Please ask questions if something is unclear.
    • In Black Soldier Fly Farming Forum / General BSF Discussions
    • BorealWormer's Avatar
    • An Inground BSF Composter
    • Quote: They need light to reproduce? I hadn't caught that before... It's the adult flies that mate not the larvae. The adults do require light , and enough room to fly, to mate. So as long as a partially buried bin allows access for the prepupal larvae to get out and the gravid female adults to get it, it might work.
    • In Black Soldier Fly Farming Forum / BSF Bins

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